Days 5 and 6 La Fortuna and Arenal

Days 5 and 6 La Fortuna-Arenal

 

We depart from Monteverde after breakfast on Saturday morning and have a lovely drive down the mountain passing through completely different scenery once again. The trip is under 2 hours to our destination and that includes a couple of stops to look at a coffee plantation and view a gold mine from the distance as well as checking out local flora.

Did you know that coffee was first discovered in Ethiopia by goat herders who discovered that the goats were grazing on plants and that they just weren't sleeping at night?

Coffee flowers, pods and beans

The coffee pickers harvest in Costa Rica from November to January and earn $2 per basket and a good picker picks around 12 baskets a day. The pods are opened and each one contains 2 beans. The outer skin is removed from the beans and is used for coffee candy then the beans are sacked and transported for sale. The pods are soaked in water and the fluid is used as a liquid fertilizer for the coffee plants. You won't find coffee growing under 800 meters and will grow up to 2000 m above sea level ( I am thinking feet but the group said the guide said meters) the higher it is grown, the more caffeine it contains. Lesson over!!!!

 

Coffee plantation

The gold mine looked like a lovely old farm from a distance with a beautiful river running through it. The landscape was very green with a lot of dairy cattle and quaint farm houses. A very enjoyable trip.

 

 

 

Goldmine

We arrive at lake Arenal where we are booked on the 10 am ferry across to the township and then a bus is to take us to La Fortuna.

We are greeted by literally thousands ( we were told 5000 in total) of mountain bike riders participating in the yearly around the lake ride. The lake is 90 square kilometers and it is a 2 day ride, with, as we discovered the overnight being in La Fortuna which had a couple of ramifications for us.

Arenals claim to fame is the amazing volcano which last had a major eruption in 1968 killing around 80 people in the town, mainly from the gases. It has had a few minor blows since then and it is illegal to climb the volcano without a certified guide. Not that I was tempted! Not long after the 1968 eruption, the government relocated the town to La Fortuna which used to be a large farm employing most of the inhabitants. The area is now mass tourism with the volcano, hot springs and the lakes utilized in an environmental way. The Costa Ricans are very proud of their environment and care for it unreservedly.

We troop across the sand, hop up a step from the beach and onto the ferry for a relaxing 40 minute trip across with ample photo opportunities of the volcano and the surrounds. We were informed that we arrived on a lucky day as the clouds cleared fora while and exposed the peak for us to photograph.

 

 

 

 

The bus picks us up and off we go to our hotel. First issue for us with the bike ride! The hotel is over booked and I don't have a room. Another couple of girls are in another hotel which by all accounts is disgusting. Eventually a room is found for me on the 3 rd floor so up I troop with my case. I discover later that Agusto our guide has relocated to another hotel and after shuffling rooms they find me an acceptable one. Trouble isI can't get in! The lock is broken, so that eventually gets fixed and I can offload my stuff and discover the balcony door doesn't lock and the balconies are open for everyone on that floor to walk across! 2 pieces of broken broom handle later and the doors are jammed into place!

Hotel is OK and it does have a hair dryer. We have all been suffering bad hair days here with the humidity, the soft water and no dryers!

There is not much to see in the town it's just hotels and a shopping strip.

After lunch we are picked up by a bus and told to wear our bathers and take a towel. We have a bus tour around the base of the volcano and this is where our second encounter with the riders occur. This ride is not well marshaled and the riders are everywhere and the spectators leave their cars where ever they feel like it. Mayhem and we are stuck in the middle of it! Eventually we escape and continue on. We take another 1 hour hike around the forest and see lots of indigenous medicinal plants and view spider and howler monkeys in the trees. Very exciting! Once again load onto the bus and out guide has in his hands a plastic bag full of clay and mud from the waterfall area that we visited on our hike. We are heading to a part of the river which is a natural hot spring bathing area with the water being heated from the volcanic activity. It is getting close to dusk now. We disrobe down to our bathers and we line up for a mud pack on our faces then are given a cup of rum with a splash of cola and ice, down that, then head into the river. Sadly we couldn't take photos as it was getting dark but also too wet for the cameras. I am kicking myself for not buying a waterproof camera. We climb over a rock ledge and sit in the water on the bigger rocks or under the little water fall that acted like a natural massage. We stayed for an hour or so sitting under the stars watching the fireflies. Magical, another b highlight. Getting back to the bus wasn't so easy but we managed to and all in one piece. Acceptable dinner in a local restaurant. In fact the food has been fine except for the cost which is causing a couple of people issues.

 

This is where the bikers gave us our 3rd headache! The town was swarming with people but it was the fiesta that the town put on for them with the music pounding out and vibrating the rooms. I can't believe that I fell asleep so quickly, the last couple of day had caught up with me.

Sunday was a free day with everyone electing what they would do. A couple doing nothing, a couple walking down to the river for a swim in the water hole and 5 of us booked to go tubing. Now I imagined a gentle float down the river watching the scenery and life passing by. I was in for a shock! After a kilometer walk from the bus we came across the river. Instructions delivered and off we go. 2 hours later after negotiating rapids, stuck on rocks like a beached whale, fighting to get out of the river bank undergrowth and hanging onto each other for dear life dragging the other person behind you to get them off the rocks, lots of screaming and laughing we finally reached the end. It was amazing fun, my arms and back were killing me, as were all the girls. We determined that you need long arms for this activity because their is a lot of paddling required to keep in e mainstream. I do have to admit that on a couple of occasions I was rescued and the guide gave me a little tow for a while. But not the only one to take advantage of this service!

 

 

We returned to the hotel at 12.30 with an hour for a quick shower and lunch then off to the afternoons activity.

This time 7 of us fronted up for horse riding around the forest and then delivered to a spa complex on horse back where the cost included the use of the natural spa pools available.

The ride was fantastic, a little uncomfortable at times but the horses wear so lovely and well trained, so loved and cared for. The most comfortable that I have ever felt riding. After an hour we gingerly disembarked on a high ridge overlooking a beautiful lake inside one of the volcanic craters and had a little rest. The downhill ride was the hardest requiring a lot of concentration! Fantastic afternoon riding beautifully trained and cared for horses.

 

 

 

We are delivered back to the spa complex where the horses are stabled and make a bee line for the reception where 4 of us book in for a 40 minute massage and a mini mud pack and facial. Heaven!!! this was followed by a 2 hour soak in the thermal pools ranging from very hot to body temperature. Bliss. It is past 8 pm when we return to the hotel. A long but brilliant day. I thout I was going to fall asleep with my face in my dinner and headed back to the hotel early but the music was so loud that it took a long time to sleep. We are heading off to the beach at 9 am the next morning. A 7 hour trip in a 20 seat bus so at least I know I will be able to sleep a bit more. Looking forward to time at Puerto Viajo. We have been told there are good places to eat, out hotel is on the beach, good music and bars so expecting some fun and relaxation.

3 more sleeps until the group split and 5 of us head off to Panama with the rest doing their own thing.

Hasta Mañana!!!!!

 

Posted with Blogsy

Untitled

San Jose to Monteverde. Days 3 and 4

We are a punctual group! Everyone was ready and waiting at 6 am and I shared my mandarins! The hotel gave us no consideration at all, nothing to drink, never mind eat before we headed off. The guide tells us that this place is not up to scratch but he says they are all the same and have an I don't care attitude!

We drive in 2 cabs to the bus station where we board our 6.30 bus. The bus is a local coach service, comfortable and clean and we leave on time. Along the way we pick up a few more passengers but I manage to keep 2 seats to spread out on! We drive towards the coast and then down the Panamerican highway and up into the mountains. The mountain road is narrow and gravel. Fairly well maintained but I was glad to be on the inside of the lane and not have to look at the drop! Missed out on a few good photos opportunities though! A picturesque drive through farming land, settlements and reach our destination at Monteverde in 3 and a half hours. Monteverde means green mountains but the drive seemed very dry and dusty to us and not as green as we all expected.

The little town is very cute but very touristy with all amenities and it is a bit difficult to stay away from the shops!

We left our belongings at the hotel, the guide walked us around the town which was not historical and merely showed us where we could lunch and find the pharmacy! So lunch we did in a place called the tree house. The place is actually built around a massive tree and you have to duck and weave around the branches! Once again mainly European food offerings with a little local food. I must be sick as I have only had 1 glass of wine since arriving, just not appealing to me but certainly does to a few of the others!

We then all went our separate ways again with me perusing the glass gallery and a few shops. There is a lot of timber products here, bowls and boxes which are beautifully made. The guide told me that most of it is made by the Indian population from river drift wood and fallen branches. Beautifully crafted and the price is good, just trying to justify!!!! Once again this is their nod to the environment as the timber needs to be cleared from the rivers to prevent unintentional damming.

I returned to the hotel and found my room. It is a much nicer place here. The rooms are very clean, basic but with a bit more warmth and charm. The grounds are gorgeous and gardens are very well cared for. The water is solar heated and once again very concerned about recycling and the environment.

My bedroom is upstairs, large with 2 queen beds ( I paid single supplement so this is all mine) and has a lovely balcony over looking the valley and it a gorgeous view and amazing to see the clouds sweep across and feel the dampness even though it is warm and sunny.

We are at sub cloud level and it is the cloud forest that we will be visiting.

A 5.30 we are picked up for a night walk in the forest in anticipation of seeing mammals, birds, snakes and insects. I would be happy just to see the mammals and birds personally!!!

Because of the latitude here ( which I don't fully understand but is something to do with 10 degrees)!!!! The days don't vary with daylight hours. It gets light at 6 and dark at 6 with minimal variation. We head to a forest, are introduced to a guide , issued with torches and off we go. I am so glad that I bought some walking shoes and a windcheater with me!!! We tramped up and down hills and tracks for nearly 2 hours and saw a little bit of life but although pleasant wasn't spectacular. I expected more! We did see a couple of toucans, some other birds that I can't remember, a sloth, a bright green tree viper, a tarantula hiding in a hole ( thank goodness) and a quite rare gold beetle that was beautiful. One of the girls discovered the beetle after it flew into her face, she swiped it away hitting me and I fell into another girl and fortunately the guide caught us before we rolled down the hill like dominoes.

Our guide has suggested a local typical food restaurant for dinner, we are a bit skeptical after the first 2 expensive meals but this one is great! Really good food at a decent price. $11 for 2 bottles of water, a mango drink and a main meal with a little bit of dulce de leche (caramel) to take home. I ate a local dish, casado con cachula. It was a plate of rice ( black beans which I didn't have) a lettuce and tomato salad with heaps of coriander which was delicious, fried sweet platano which I am hooked on, a pickle and a little pork chop with heaps of fried onions. Delicious. We are all well fed and very happy!!!

Back to the hotel for another early morning. Good news is that the substantial breakfast they offer is only $7. I actually don't get too concerned about the costs as you have to eat and I want to eat properly. But there are travelers on a strict budget and there are so many additional expenses that these extra costs are killing them.

Day 4 starts with an 8 am pick up from the hotel. We are heading off to the cloud forest which as the name suggests is at cloud level. We are doing zip lining across the canopy, Tarzan swinging, seeing the hummingbird garden and then a walk across the 10 hanging bridges. I am trying not to think too much about it all. A couple have pulled out due to the cost and another who is petrified of heights.

We climb quite high in the van and are dropped off at the entrance amidst the clouds and mist streaming across which of course bring with them the damp which is soon followed by continuous rain. This is the micro weather pattern up here , totally different from down hill. We pay our $70 and are sent off to harness up and meet our guides for the next 2 hours. Zip lining is when your harness is attached to the steel ropes, you bring up your knees , cross your feet and are pushed out into the middle of nowhere and whiz and scream along the cable for a distance ranging from 50 meters to 1000 meters. The worst bit is standing on the platform and feeling like a little slip and you are over the edge. Not possible are we were hooked onto a cable at every moment. So you go screaming out over the canopy, into cloud so you can't see where you are and then out again with a frantic guide signaling to brake! Terrifying but exhilarating. Half way through we had to trek up another steep hill to the next set, this is when I remembered that my ventolin was in my back pack down in the locker!!! Breathing was bordering on an asthma attack but because I knew what was happening I stopped until it settled. By the time we did the 14th line we were all exhausted but wanting more!!! At the end of the lines we had the choice of doing the Tarzan swing. I only wanted to look but before I knew it and could back out I had been harnessed up and pushed over the edge into a free fall which then became a BIG swing over the lower canopy. Apparently I did swear out rather loudly, not intentional but I wasn't expecting to be pushed over quite so quickly. I wanted a bit of time to think about it!

The weather didn't clear up for us and the rain got heavier so we tramped back to the restaurant for a coffee before heading off for our bridge walk. Once again, this was a BIG walk up mountain tracks and over swinging bridges that seemed quite tame when they were short but as they got longer and higher I got over them as quickly as possible and tried not to look down. Felt very uncomfortable and I wasn't the only one! We walked for about 90 minutes and the yawning indicated we were all getting very weary. Also we actually hadn't had enough to eat or drink for the intensity of this exercise and were all feeling the effects.

We returned to the hotel mid afternoon where I chilled out and ate more fruit before we again met up for dinner at 7. Ate a similar meal to the night before, purchased some coffee beans that were grown and roasted locally and back to the room by 9. I am becoming a Wowser!

This area also has an interesting history. In the 1950s a group of Quakers from the USA decided to find a new place to live in Central America . They wanted an environment where they could continue their dairy farming and organic practices. They came across Monteverde and discovered that it was perfect for their needs and settled here bringing with them their dairy cattle that flourished. They made cheeses and butter and spread their knowledge and practices with the community. They they proceeded to get all the local farmers on board and formed a cooperative whereby they purchased the milk to continue their production. This gave the community purpose and a worthwhile industry that benefited everybody. There are now coffee plantations and agriculture as this is rich volcanic soil.

History lesson over, body aching like mad, a cold night so I can feel a good deep sleep coming on if the coughing stops, today's activities probably didn't help too much.

Tomorrow another 8 am start and on to Arenal, a volcanic area about an hour and a half drive from here.

Buenos noches amigos, hasta luego!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Posted with Blogsy

Miami to Costa Rica days 1 and 2

Miami to Costa Rica Feb 26th.

 

Unfortunately, 2 days before I was due to leave Miami for Costa Rica I managed to get a rather nasty sinus infection. This put a dampener on my preparations and desire to go anywhere. BUT the trip had been paid for so I dosed myself up with whatever I could find and early on the Tuesday morning Jesus dropped me off at the airport.

In the USA, passengers are required to be at the airport 3 hours before departure. The process of getting through security etc is a long one and often this time is needed. Good and bad but I got through pretty quickly and made my way to the lounge. Settled in with a coffee and not long after we were advised that the flight had been delayed by an hour. I made my way to the next lounge, plugged in the phone to charge it and sat and waited. The next announcement was to inform us that there was now a gate change from gate 8 to 51. A long way off which included a quick march, 2 sets of escalators, 3 sky train stops and stairs then a rush for a seat to settle in once again for the wait. Eventually departed 40 minutes later and after an un eventful flight landed in San Jose Costa Rica, went through a relatively quick customs and immigration and found my driver waiting for me.

The drive once again uneventful with little communication even though he spoke English and I was delivered to my hotel.

The hotel is a timber Victorian building "renovated" into a hotel. As one of my co travelers expressed, it is a step up from camping! Clean enough but very few amenities, pleasant staff but a very rude female owner. In fact it was clean but crappy, nobody very impressed. The other issue is that 4 years ago the railway line was reinstated and the massive trains go through every 30 minutes with a screaming blast of warning that continues for about 30 seconds. The line and crossing is about 20 meters from the hotel and the trains run from 6 am to just before midnight and they feel like they are going to come through the wall. A nightmare! Particularly as my ears were sore from the sinus and then the cabin pressure!

The group met at 7 pm for a briefing and a dinner at the hotel which was good enough but the price not commensurate with the offerings. Gecko had written that $25 a day should cover for lunches and dinners not included in the package and bottled water. This one çourse meal blew the budget! In fact I defy anyone to eat properly here and buy enough water for a day on $25. We have since discovered that many restaurants here are pricey for the situation. Breakfast the next day cost $10 for tea, fruit and toast. Most of us after reading the sent literature believed breakfast was included but in fact very little is included, no food, no real activities, mainly the transport, the tourist class hotels and the guide!

Day 2 started at 9 am with a 3 hour walking tour of the city sights. San Jose is not a pretty city but has a few very nice architectural points but some shockers also. I took some very nice shots but the iPad froze when downloading them and they all disappeared off the iPad and the card, have some from one of the others on a memory stick but need laptop to download them. So no attached photos of San Jose!!

Anyway, the afternoon was free time and we were to meet for another briefing and dinner at 7.

I decided to set off on my own with map in hand and spent the afternoon revisiting the central market where I decided to taste some local food. Food outlets here apparently have very high hygiene standards and the guide assured us that it was safe to eat here. I tried a maize tortilla with cheese which was a bit dry and uninspiring so left most of it and ended up buying 5 mangoes and 15 mandarins for $3 and have been munching my way through them over the past couple of days. Actually food here is uninspiring and the traditional food is similar to the other South American and Caribbean countries, rice and beans (yuk) tortilla, yucca and other root vegetables. They have heavily embraced pizza and pasta and that is found everywhere. European style food is easy to get but disappointing as I like to try the local foods.

I walked up and down Central Avenida then visited the gold museum. This museum is very modern and purpose built underground. Gold is not a big production here, the gold is from historical times when it was panned and then made into beautiful ornaments, jewelry and funereal items. Most prices are of birds and animals and beautifully pressed discs used for ornamentation. There were also lovely tribal masks and ceramics. I thoroughly enjoyed it.

The hotel is called Posada de Museo and is diagonally opposite the National museum. After walking back to the hotel up some very steep hills and after a little rest I ventured to this museum. This museum is located in what used to be the army barracks. It comprises of the old fortress, some colonial buildings and additions. The entry is through a butterfly enclosure which is 2 storeys high and ramps have been installed for access, very impressive entrance. The museum is composed of gold and ceramics exhibits once again, some natural history items, currently has a large Japanese doll collection on loan celebrating some children's festival and also has the furnishings set in a colonial house which belonged to the commandant.

The reason that this building is available is because in the 70s, the armed forces in Costa Rica were disbanded, there is no military here. There is a very strong democracy with a female president and the government believe that the money which was used to fund the army could be better used on social reform, education and health. They believe that because they have no oil or rich resources that nobody is interested in invasion to steal the coffee and take over the agriculture!!!!

The really interesting thing here is that Costa Rica is very environmentally minded. There are reminders everywhere about waste, recycling etc. there are wind farms, organic farming and they are very aware of the carbon omissions. The central area is very clean and well attended and apparently the people here have a much higher standard of living compared to the other Central and South American countries.

So we ate dinner together at a pleasant but expensive for what we got restaurant and turned in early for our 6 am pick up to travel to Monteverde.

I was pleased for an early night as still not feeling 100%.

My travel companions are a very nice group of people. 1 Swiss, 3 Canadians, 1 American, 2 English and 3 Australian. 3 guys and 7 females. Ages ranging from 19 to 60! But we all get along very well. 5 of us will be traveling on to Panama with the other 5 making private arrangements for beach time or returning home.

So the first 2 days are over and now on to more inspiring scenery and activities.

 

Posted with Blogsy

Miami and Sarasota Feb 2013

 

 

I had booked my flight to Miami and return over 6 months prior to departure based on a Qantas sale. The idea being that I would spend a few days with my friends then head off into Central or South America and do some volunteer work incorporated with a tour.

Not long after purchasing the flights, I was asked by a friend if I would, during this time, assist in renovating and decorating an apartment that was being purchased on a short sale. I agreed thinking I could do a bit of everything and would sort out the volunteer work once I hit America and knew exactly how much work was to be done at the apartment. The idea being that I would live in the apartment during this time.

WELL, the discovery is that a short sale is a misnomer, it is everything except short for the purchaser and this was not explained by the realtor. A short sale by definition means that the bank is short paid on the amount of mortgage that is owed to them. The principal being that an amount would be settled on after valuation, the government assist the bank with the short fall (so I believe) and the vendor goes away empty handed but with some pride intact and will eventually be able to get a loan in the future. This is in preference to just walking away and having a bad record forever.

In this case the Bank of America is the seller. They are the most inept and the most unprofessional institution that could ever be dealt with. After 7 months they have not settled the property because they have no interest it would seem. Phone calls and emails go unanswered, they allow deadlines to expire and then ask for information that has already been provided, there have been 6 negotiators and my friend can't back out because the deposit will be lost.

This is a nightmare for my friend but has had repercussions for me as I didn't have a place to stay! Fortunately for me Yara and Jesus are amazingly good and kind and I have stayed with them earning my keep by cooking! Yara doesn't like cooking but Jesus likes eating!

All the time the settlement has been on the horizon and as I got roped into keeping on the banks tail and assisting with writing to them I couldn't book to go and do the volunteer work but fortunately bit the bullet and booked this current tour (thinking the apartment HAD to be settled by this time)!

In the midst of this I did fly over to Sarasota and visited my school days friend Susan and her husband Gary. They have a lovely home situated in a community built around a golf course. The estate also has a gym, tennis courts, club house and a very active community. Susan and Gary live in the UK in the English summer and escape most of the winter in Florida. Gary is an ardent golfer and Susan is a keen runner and fitness enthusiast so the life has suited them well for the past 9 years.

Sarasota is a massive contrast to Miami. Quieter, artistic, less pockets of poverty, more gentile and much less Latino influence. This is where the more comfortable Americans from the north spend the cold months. It is a lovely clean and very impressive little city with nice restaurants and plenty to do.

So I had a few gentile days where Susan kindly took me around the city, showed me the sights and we had a beautiful walk along Siesta beach. This beach is amazing as the sand is white and the particles are quartz powder which is so soft, sticks like glue to your feet but doesn't get hot!

We went out with Gary to a couple of very nice restaurants and I generally lazed a around EXCEPT for Susan's exercise regime! 3 mornings a week off to the gym at 6.45 for the exercise class then walking in between. I haven't done this much exercise for ages. Actually Yara and Jesus got me to join their gym in Hialeah which was very cheap and they drag me off there every morning for an exercise class also. If nothing I should return home fitter.

So my time in Miami has been an unusual time for me because in the past I would be off teaching somewhere. I have had a couple of emails from Cuba asking when I was returning but not this time.

No new photos of Miami attached as not a lot to show but a few of Sarasota.

Next blog will be from San Jose in Costa Rica where I will start a 17 day journey with a tour group. I know it is going to be challenging and as Andrew reminded me, there will be no frequent flyer upgrades. This trip is 3 star at best but Patrick reassured me I would be fine. This is coming from my kids who turn their noses up at anything less than 5!!!!

Hasta luego amigos, until next time.

 

 

 

 

 

Posted with Blogsy