Thursday 24 April 2014

Khmer New Year

It has been 2 weeks since my furniture arrived and so 2 weeks of a nice comfortable bed and 2 weeks since my shoulder has stopped hurting from the plank I was sleeping on, ah bliss!

The dust which is more like a layer of garden dirt , is relentless and impossible to keep a clean surface for longer than 24 hours. For me this is constant cleaning and I really do have to stop worrying about things that I can't fix at the moment. It will get better once the garden at the front is finished and the dust literally settles!

 

Most things are unpacked, a couple of extra shelf units purchased and the study starting to look like a work area. It is so nice to have all the mod cons at hand and not have to run down to the printers for the smallest job.

 

Khmer New Year has come and gone with Siem Reap being lit up like Blackpool. Lights everywhere from the authorities lighting up the temples to the streets having lighting erected and the local folk decorating their homes. parties everywhere, this is a big family reunion time and people travel from one end of Cambodia to the other by any means that they can to reunite. Last year was apparently the first time that the government has made a spectacle of the temples with the illuminations , the concerts, food stalls and family entertainment. Last year around 150,000 visitors. 200,000 expected this year. Nak invited me to go over one night for some photography and the traffic coming in and out of the area was incredible. Seeing the temples at night was another experience all together and amazing clambering around by artificial light. Bayon was extraordinary. It usually costs $20 a day for a temple pass, free entry for locals, but after 5.30 it is free entry for everyone and probably the best time to go! Between us, Nak and I took around 300 photos which had massive editing of course, but it was fun.

 

I did think that with so much closed and no work or volunteers around, that it would be a very long dull time but I was mistaken. I kept so busy in the garden, just doing what I can do with clearing, sweeping, getting rid of old bricks etc. I dug out a couple of shrubs that had such intertwined roots that the afternoon disappeared and I had a very sore back. Decided this was the right time to head off for a massage and give myself a new year treat! A scrub, a massage and a facial, fabulous! It was 7pm before I knew it and decided to have an Indian meal in town. This place is very good and it would have to be to entice me to be anywhere near Pub Street, particularly at this time of year. It really was incredible with the noise and the seizure inducing strobe lighting! I have never eaten so quickly and been so happy to get home!

 

Nakk the young man who works for me has returned to his homeland to see his mother for a few days. He fortunately got a ride on a motorbike otherwise the only was to have got there would be In a shared cab, 2 hour journey, $5 or $10 bucks and had the pleasure of sharing with 10 others in a Camry. Can you imagine that?

 

Friday night, just before the holiday I had the pleasure of dinner with Peter Norden. He was here as the tour leader of a group or responsible travelers from the Uniting Church. Anyone who knows Peter would see the irony of this! We had a very pleasant evening at Haven which matched his travels as it is a restaurant which trains young Khmers from difficult backgrounds. Met the responsible criteria!

 

Young Nakk returned from his homeland a couple of days early and being the good young fellow he is, decided to let me know that he would come and work with me Friday as he was going to a temple on the Thai border for some celebrations on the Saturday. We worked solidly (but with a siesta imposed by myself from 1-3) from 10 - 7 and I had to force him to leave! We dug, we swept, we cleared, we had a fire as all good Cambodians do. This was the point that he stopped becoming Nakk and became fireman Sam. Nakk is a bit of an arsonist, like most young men his age, the higher the flames are leaping the broader his smile! So we are pottering away when the security guard next door comes over and they are chattering away in Khmer. Nakk downs tools, strolls over to the river bank, strolls back, picks up his I rake and continues working. What was all that about I ask, Oh he thinks the tree is burning. Well is it I ask. Yes he says! No jumping up and down, no fear! So what are we going to do? we can't leave it! We need water. The hose doesn't reach. The ladder! We set that up and up he goes. The bucket is too heavy so I find a smaller bucket and a jug. I' m the only one who sees the crisis and am panicking as most people would, but they are Khmer and they have seen and experienced worse, this is nothing!

A spark had ignited leaves that were sitting in the hollow of a branch and the BIG branch was smoldering away on this very big and very dry old tree. All I could picture was coming out onto the balcony and seeing the whole of the Siem reap river bank burning!!! Anyway, a few buckets of water later, emergency over and Fireman Sam was born! back to work and fire doused! But needless to say when I return from work today, he has it burning again! I just want the ashes for the soil that I am mixing but that is another story!

 

So Sunday morning when I am feeling ever so slightly delicate after dinner out with Samuel which due to his terrible time keeping was more drinks than dinner, the phone rings, it is 8 am. Nak (with 1 k) Hi Lynn I am here to help!!! Oh my goodness, have I got the energy?


Nak, come up, I'm having breakfast, would you like a cup of tea? No I want that coffee you made me last time, I love it!!! Good coffee here is a premium, not the coffee so much but the way it's made! I have the Italian style stove top coffee maker, some great Puerto Rican coffee and fresh Thal milk! I made one for Nak last week and he is hooked. He says the best coffee he has ever had in Siem Reap and he means it and stands over me while I make it!

We head off to Route 6 as Nak knows of a good plant nursery. We locate it and there are 2 hectares of tropical plants, amazingly healthy and such a good price. We literally load the car up and head home stopping at the local pottery works which just happen to be right behind my property! Incredible to see what they make there, massive water pots and every shape and size of plant pots.

We spend the rest of the afternoon digging and planting and Nak scales a couple of trees to cut off the dead branches. What a difference!

Even though I have these 2 lovely young men assisting me I do have to say that my best friend is the high pressure cleaner and I have to wrestle it off Nakk if I want a turn! If has made life so much easier as the walls get badly covered by black mould and need regular cleaning.

My other activity for the week was a visit to the local curtain shop. Pleasantly surprised by the service, the price and the selection. I have found the black metal curtain rings I need and have ordered a 50 mm metal Venetian for the kitchen and a roller blind for the bedroom. They will make my drapes for me for $3 a meter with me supplying the fabric and tape etc. which is pretty good, just waiting for the rods to go up then I can measure.

 

So the "what I thought was going to be a quiet week " turned into a busy productive time and now work looms!

 

Holiday is over and the new term at Grace House commences. The ride there is so much simpler on my bike, less peddling and more distance covered by the bigger wheels, not to mention the gears for the hill leading up to the ring road bridge. The first 2 days of this week are pupil free, time for cleaning and organizing and for me to familiarize myself with the job and where everything is on the computer. 2 massive cases of books and stationary items have been donated by a school and brought over by a Canadian family, takes 3 of us 2 hours to put it all away. I have 3 bags of goodies here at my place that need to be delivered also, a gift from 3 Australian visitors that I showed around last week. Actually had a good morning with these girls as after we had visited the empty school, I took them to Wat Athwea which is close to Grace House, to discover the whole community there celebrating New Year and making offerings to the monks. A lot of the kids and families recognized me and came over to say hello, it was wonderful.

 

New Year celebrations over, work has begun and routine to be established. My life is going to be very full but I am sure very rewarding also.

 

My first visitor, Kim, arrives from Sydney on Friday and stays for a week, we first met in 2011 when we were volunteering with Globalteers. It will be lovely to have her company.

 

Sure there will be so much more to tell in the next blog.

 

 

P

 

Monday 14 April 2014

Week 5. Khmer New Year Holiday

Where has the time gone? Into week 5 already. I am starting to appreciate the surrounding environment. This part of Siem Reap is a pocket or an oasis away from the hustle and bustle of town. Less traffic, less noise and far more peaceful. Pretty good considering we are not that removed from the centre.The trees are beautiful, indigenous to the area and many if them not found anywhere else. I am lucky to have found this place.

My garden is full of trees and we are planning the renovation around them, they are very old and worth saving. Most of them are local fruit trees whose names totally escape me! Several of them look like apricots. They are taller than this villa which is double storey with 12 foot ceilings.

 

The owners sent in men who climbed the trees and picked much of the fruit which they then sold. I have had to put a stop to this because of security and wanting to lock the gates when I'm not here. The down side is that the ground is covered in the fallen fruit and it is a heck of a mess. They drop off the trees at night and the noise hitting the roof is like a gun shot! The fruit is very sweet but the skin is thick and the stone is large so not a lot of flesh to eat.

 

There is another fruit similar in colour but growing in bunches, it will be ripe soon. Another tree bears fruit that looks like large green apples that turn purple. This is Inedible as the tree has been attacked by some sort of grub that is inside the fruit. Apart from this I have bananas growing and. 2 coconut trees.

 

Outside the gate and on the river bank is a tall lychee tree but the locals have decimated it by pulling off large branches to get to the fruit. This tree and fruit are aplenty mine and the locals should not be taking it, will deal with that next year!

 

I haven't seen or heard a lot of birds in Siem Reap and this is apparently due to them being eaten during the pol pot era and recovery has been slow. BUT I hear them around here and occasionally see some but no idea what they are. There are many geckos, some funny rapid moving lizards and a type of squirrel that has a double yellow stripe up its back and shoots up the trees. Of course I never have my camera around when I see them.

 

My bit of terror occurred a couple of days ago when I went to plug an extension cord into the outdoor power point. I came face to face with a snake, girth about the size of my little finger and around 30 cm long and it was hanging out of the socket! It slowly wound itself up and disappeared inside! Gorgeous colours of green and yellow and have since been advised if it has green then it would be poisonous! I didn't need that information to stay well away from it!

 

I thought that working at the farm was a steep learning curve but everything here is a little more difficult, not only because of the language but because of the lack of resources and local knowledge! After a hard days work earlier this week I went for a shower to discover no water. The tank was dry. The valve for the city water had been on all day but the tank had failed to fill. Apparently the population has outgrown the water supply and frequently it just goes off. I rang the owners son to find out what to do and the family trooped around. Explained to me that I needed to put on the electric pump and get some water into the tank from the well then leave the city valve open so that when the water comes on it will top the tank up. This usually occurs overnight when demand is low. Outcome is that the tank overflowed at 3 am and I had to clamber out of bed and downstairs and go around the back and turn the valve off! Bit of a bloody nuisance really. The valve is currently open but am going to turn it off before I go to bed. The demand will be greater this weekend as the city is full due to Khmer New year. The big drama was that the pump then failed! It was whirring but not pumping. I called Luigi who runs an Italian NGO and we is a mine of knowledge and his guys do ironwork, install aircons, some electrical and some plumbing. Lucky for me he had somebody on duty today and I had a lesson in how to prime a well pump! Fortunately that was the problem.

 

I had a surprise visitor his week, Peter Norden who is a good friend of Joe and Julie's was escorting a group to Cambodia and he had a free evening so we went out for dinner. Also spent an evening with Samuel at the River Garden which is nice and local and good food so haven't been sitting at home on my own every night! There is an Italian restaurant over the river to me and had heard it was Ok so Nak and I ventured there last weekend. I must say that I was not confident but off we went. The restaurant was lovely but what a shocking meal, neither of us enjoyed it so reluctant to try their small goods that they have recently started making.

 

This weekend is the New Year celebration and the town is brightly lit up and everywhere are colorful starts made from bamboo frames and cellophane, the music is pumping, the river bank closer to town has marquees set up and food stalls appearing. I was going to go along there later this afternoon but got caught up cleaning out the boxes in the study! Of course, more things than I have space to put them!

Next doors lights look like Blackpool and Christmas rolled into 1. Tomorrow I shall take a photo before it gets too late!

 

I very excitedly jumped on my bike yesterday to discover the brakes had been dismantled and I had no idea how to reassemble them but found a road side still/ repairer/ bike shop and for $1 he sorted it all out for me. It is so good to have a decent bike to ride! I was pretty lucky to find these guys as so many people don't open over this time.

 

I have one more week before I start at Grace House and was hoping to have the garden sorted before then but with the holidays that is t going to happen. It will be just one small piece at a time. That is how things are done here!!!!

The most exciting event this week was of course receiving my furniture. Arrived promptly Tuesday morning, unpacked, beds reassembled and packing taken away. Of course I have much more stuff than I need and not enough space to put it all and there are a few boxes that I re packed because I now know that I am never going to need it! I am now living in a home away from home. I just don't have a dining table but haven't actually needed one but 8 chairs on their own look rather silly!

 

Second most exciting thing was unpacking the high pressure cleaner and I am amazed after the work that it has done over the past 2 days that it is still working!

Until next time, x

 

 

Wednesday 2 April 2014

My house is a very very very nice house........

My new home.

 

Let me tell you about my new home. Commonly known as the villa (which is sandwiched between Dragon condominiums and USAid, along the river close to Apsara Authority)!

Villa does sound pretentious but that is what a brick or solid construction dwelling is referred to here!

So, my Villa which is currently named Reaksmey Piseth Villa, but not for long may I add, is around 20 years old, rendered brick with a fascia of a type of terrazzo which is actually a redeeming and somewhat attractive feature remembering that beauty is relevant to its position and surroundings!

There are painted iron railings which surround the wide and large balconies, large double timber doors at the front and many windows which are embellished by faux Corinthian pillars highlighted in a most attractive apricot paint!

This all of course has had little or no attention since is was built around 15 years ago. it has been waiting for me!!!

Soon to have the apricot removed, the paintwork rejuvenated white and the railings charcoal. The terrazzo is waiting for my karcher to arrive in that container!!!!

Inside is a joy. The lay out is typical of the Khmer style - none! There is a random assortment of rooms which surround large open areas that could be construed as large corridors or Inappropriately placed living spaces. The bedrooms remind me of public toilets with tiled floors and tiled half way up the walls. Sometimes the tiles even match. The grouting is thick and grubby, my triceps and biceps are getting a work out! Most of the rooms have air conditioners of various eras and ceiling fans which are a blessing here. Reason being is that obviously a good way to move the air but secondly it costs around 3000 riel (US 75 cents) an hour to run an A/C, electricity is expensive.

The light fittings are a complimentary to the visage, fluorescent scheme, some of which I haven't quite worked out where the switches are but I'm sure after 5 years I will locate them all.

I don't have a kitchen upstairs where I am planning to live but I have taken over one of the smaller rooms and installed my somewhat better than a camping stove and 20 kg gas bottle along with the attractive metal stand. Hey, 2 gas rings, what more could a gourmet cook want? No sink but that's good exercise as I have to keep running out to the balcony to the external bathrooms , yes I have 2(!) to wash up and wipe all the mango juice off my face! This is the time that I have my romantic interludes with the neighbor across our dividing space as he inhales putrid smoke into his lungs. I am sure he must think I am either stalking him as he is always out there first or he thinks I have a bladder problem. We have said hello once or twice but now we are both playing hard to get and totally ignore each other. I will show him that I'm not easy to lure come this week as I am building myself in with bamboo screens.

As mentioned, yes the bathrooms x 2 are on the large balcony on the side of the house. Downstairs every room has an ensuite but as I like to take the difficult way, I am living upstairs! These bathrooms are once again typical Khmer, loo at one end, hand basin and a shower head that sprays out from the wall in the centre of these 2 fixtures, saturating everything if one is not careful! By next week one will be loo and basin only and the other will have the loo removed, the shower head replaced and moved and a curtain installed. The sink will become an unattractive but functional kitchen sink unit so I can at least wash up without being tempted to place the dishes on the toilet! In my defence I have gone through a lot of bleach cleaning these 2 rooms!!!!!

My furniture should arrive within the next 2 weeks therefore I have this window of opportunity to paint, screen and improve the electrics, all of which have been arranged. I can't do anything about the tiling unless I want to bust the budget but hoping the furnishings, rugs and curtains that I plan will camouflage this decorating faux pas!

There are some absolutely hideous aspects about this villa but it's going to be home for some time and I will have to learn to live with them, do my best to clean it up and thank my lucky stars that I'm not out in the street with my tiny kids in tow scratching around the rubbish bin for anything I can find to make me a few cents. I live in luxury and must NEVER forget this and have to use my time here to make a success of things business wise and to try to make a difference to the lives of those around me that are far more less fortunate.

 

A week on and I am sitting in what was my bedroom and now has the 2 chairs and coffee table plus TV in it! The painters have had me moving around! The place is taking shape, I have shaken off my man over the driveway as the bamboo screens are in place, they look really good and afford the privacy that I want but allow the air through (as hot as it is).

The living room is half painted with just the bathrooms to follow, these guys move quickly but do take a 2 hour lunch break! The electricians are outside screeching with laughter as there was a power issue and the wires weren't testing positive, after dismantling the power points they have an hour on, discovered it is the screwdriver that is broken and the power is fine.

The trades have all learnt today that it is a good idea to get me to look at the positioning of everything before they fit off as every time my idea of placement is different to theirs!

The builder is moving along with the bathroom, I have a little laundry sink, a shower rail, towel rails and the water heater and rain shower are currently being installed. It is not as glamorous as it sounds! But definitely more user friendly!

The downstairs kitchen which will be the restaurant kitchen is taking shape. It is scrubbed clean, has been painted, the extra lighting and power points are in hand and the glass cupboard doors are being replaced. It is now more than useable for me and once a few more things are done - it will be a reasonable commercial kitchen by Khmer standards!

The small guest room downstairs that I am renting out in June has been cleaned and awaits painting, this has to be done anyway so not an additional expense.

 

My days have been busy with coordinating all this work, I have been out with Bridget on a few occasions, spent Sunday at the Grace House kids soccer finals where one of the teams won and. Since then have been nursing a very hot and burnt face! That afternoon was spent sitting at Prince D'Angkor pool. I need to swim more! Have also spent some time at Grace House getting to know the job and re-aquainting myself with the staff and students. They actually break up this Friday for 2 weeks for Khmer New Year so I have some time for planning and familiarizing myself with the role and posting the Grace House updates.

 

The architects came today for the weekly visit and we have confirmed design, one more meeting before the holidays then the plans will go to tender and hopefully - by their reckoning- things should start mid May. We'll see!!!

 

The heat continues to be intense with hotter to come in April, with no school, the trades done, there could be quite a lot of pool time happening, may even take a little trip somewhere. Thailand is within easy reach so that could be tempting! Anyone want to meet me there?????

 

Well that's this weeks report, the time is flying and now have to get my life organized for the working chapter!

 

Ley Hi!!