So here I am back in Siem Reap after an uneventful flight and lucky enough to have 2 seats which allowed me to stretch my leg out minimizing the discomfort in my knee.
I spent the first night and most of the next day at The Frangipani Hotel where I usually head to. I am so pleased that this time I made the decision and found a small apartment to stay in for the remainder of time here. The hotel has deteriorated, it needs a good paint, the outdoor furniture and the foyer furniture are in bad shape and the pool was poorly maintained. So disappointing as I have loved my stays here in the past. They are installing a lift which is a plus except that the drilling and hammering went on all day Sunday.
Nak picked me up Sunday and we whizzed around on his motor bike, I checked out the apartment, Nak sorted out a couple of minor issues, we bought a cheap bike for me to use here and after lunch he dropped me at the market whilst he went and picked up the bike and took it to the apartment. He had a tour group arriving at 5 and after he settled them into their hotel, ferried me and my bags to the apartment.
My daily triathlon begins! I get up at 6, head down to the pool for a swim, usually around 500 meters. I then struggle the 61 stairs back to my apartment on the 3rd floor, shower, eat and then set off on my bicycle to Grace House, about a 25 minute ride. I must say that I don't speed as it has been extraordinarily hot and I arrive in a lather of perspiration. I work from 8.30 to 4pm then do a reverse triathlon!! Cycle home, up the stairs, swim and then back up the stairs. Bit of a bugger if I forget something and have to struggle back up again!
There have been a few changes at the project with the employment of a volunteer coordinator/ senior student English teacher, a couple of new buildings, the expansion of the social work department and some staff changes. Bridget is still in the UK (returning next week) and Alan is very busy overseeing things and keeping the electrical training going. It is great feeling comfortable and getting such a warm welcome on my return, straight back into it!!!
This visit I am working with Leung who teaches middle school so the focus is different and probably more challenging. Today's question ( my topic this month is the earth so we are looking at geology) was,"why is the middle of earth hot". I have no idea and need to do some googling!!! I have to admit that geology is new to me but also fascinating and I am enjoying the research and reading. The students seem to be interested which is a plus!!!!
The apartment is somewhat different to my home in Melbourne but I accept that it is many times more comfortable and much bigger than the majority of the teachers and students homes. Most of them live in a 1 room with a whole family with often a share bathroom. This costs around $50 a month which is a fair whack of their wage. In contrast I live in luxury here. I have a little kitchen with a 1 gas burner stove (but I am managing) I have a lounge with a small dining table and a separate bedroom with ensuite. The building is a small hotel with 2 apartments on the top floor. Currently there is myself, somebody in the other apartment and another room taken but I haven't seen anyone! I feel like I am the only person here, certainly the only person using the pool which is kept crystal clean. It Is low season and the town is relatively quiet with very few tourists.
It may be low season but the Khmers are still nut cases on the roads and the traffic has increased. Bike riders have to keep their wits about them because we are the lowest in the pecking order!!! The ride along the Tonle Sap road (which leads to the Tonle Sap lake) has changed. The banks have been cleared of many of the old shacks with the residents having been moved 40 kilometers out of town. This is a sad situation but the river certainly looks healthier and much cleaner. This clearing out of what I was told were squatters for want of a better word, was happening when I was last here. It is an ongoing situation and will eventually affect some of the Grace House families when the clearing out gets further on towards the lake.
Have a look at the safety clothing, the up to date machinery and the parking facilities that the union has negotiated for these workers!!!!!
The market prices appear to be similar to last year and this side of the river houses many more inexpensive restaurants. This side historically was where the back packers were but there is a lot of development of little boutique villa style hotels happening. I ate out with Hayley ( the volunteer coordinator) last night and my meal was $2.50!!!!!! It was acceptable without being great and I didn't get sick!
I am happy enough to eat at home I must say as I am exhausted from the day and the heat and after I have showered all I want to do is collapse. PLUS the food choice at the market is fantastic!! The fruit and the vegetables are amazing and so cheap and I know I can buy it cheaper if I wanted to get it at the market near school and ride home with it! I have discovered a beautiful yogurt made in Phnom Penh , natural, unsweetened etc etc and is a delicious breakfast with the lovely fresh fruit I bought. Lunch is at the project, a stir fry with veg and I do allow myself a bit of rice as I know I need a bit of carbs! Usually followed by some fruit and a 50c iced coffee at the local cafe. It is actually a strong long black over ice with a side serve of a thin condensed milk, sounds awful but you develop a taste for it.
I am looking forward to the weekend and a ride to the market to restock and buy some incredibly cheap prawns.
Politically here not a lot has changed. There has recently been elections and the official result is to be announced in this weekend. Everyone knows the outcome even though they are all convinced it has been rigged. There is to be a massive peoples rally in PP on Saturday and we are asking if something may be happening here also but nobody knows. We just pray it remains peaceful and the government who we know will be returned, doesn't turn on the people. Hun Sen (who was a member of the Khmer Rouge) has been in power for many years and his main rival, Sam Rainsey has just returned from France where he fled to some years ago. A local told me that even though the government would like to dispose of him, the USA have threatened to withdraw aid and support if any harm comes to him.
We have been a bit waterlogged at Grace House due to a big storm early Monday morning that left the grounds looking like a rice paddy, the humidity has been very high and I have been attacked by Mosquitos! 15 bites that I can count and they are from my face to my toes. I spray the apartment a lot and wear the tropical strength roll on around my arms and legs and don't even feel myself getting bitten or hear the damned things but they know where I am. Trying not to scratch.
The heat remained with us for most of the week interspersed with some rain. The cooler weather appeared this weekend with even more rain but no floods.
The rallies never eventuates in Siem reap and it continued to be quiet and I haven't even heard anything about Phnom Pehn. Heard more on the BBC about the Australian elections, they gave it big coverage.
Saturday morning I paid a visit to the Old Market known as Chas Psar. It was bustling with locals and the country merchants are still setting up their fish stalls in the shoe shop aisles. I bought a variety of fruits and prawns but was disappointed to learn that much of the fruit is imported from the USA, China and Vietnam. The produce I bought as lovely but disappointed in the spice mix so am going to find out this week where to buy the basic spices. I am sure the ladies in the kitchen at Grace House will point me in the right direction.
In the afternoon I splurged on a wonderful massage and body scrub at a little spa in my street. Couldn't bear to wash off all the lovely lotions and potions so missed out on my afternoon swim!
Was planning to do some bike exploration today but the rain was too heavy so had a quick ride to the supermarket, spent a few hours reading about mudslides(!) and a swim with Hayley when the rain settled. A nice way to spend a Sunday.
Next week more volunteers are arriving at the project and Bridget returns from the UK so things will be different again. Looking forward to it.
Until next week......
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