Autumn 2012

It has been just over 2 weeks since I returned from Cambodia. I arrived to a perfect Autumn day, the first day of Autumn to be exact. Mark picked me up and delivered me to Hawthorn from where number 2 son Andrew took me to breakfast at Pearl cafe. All I wanted was bacon, I don't know why because I always regret eating it, as I did this time!

The day passed with me achieving very little and my plans for returning to the country didn't eventuate until Monday.

Monday was another perfect day and I arrived at the farm to glorious sunshine and a very green garden. The rains that fell in this area whilst I was away had done a great job in keeping the place alive and flourishing. I parked the car and headed straight to the fig tree and plucked a beautiful piece of fruit which I promptly ate followed by several more. In the 4 years since I have been here I have never seen the trees bear so much fruit.

My next joy was to discover that the rain water tanks are all full for the first time ever. One less thing to worry about!!!

Actually I have never seen the garden looking so green and so healthy and the smell of ripe quinces was and still is intoxicating.

So, 35 liters of weed killer later, several hours of mowing and a day or 2 of weeding the vegetable beds, the place is back in order.

These lovely days have been tempered by several which were very cool with freezing nights and I was convinced I had seen the last of the warm weather. But this is Melbourne and the warm weather has returned.

I have been delighted to find that the vegetable garden has continued to produce beans ( although they are looking very raggy and need to be pulled) tomatoes, plenty of eggplant and I managed to get a few more zucchini before I pulled the untidy remains out.

The chillies are a source of amazement because I have never seen so much fruit grow on one plant. As mentioned before there are also many quinces and figs.

If I haven't been working in the garden, driving up and down to town to deal with the mundane issues of life I have been working frantically in the kitchen. These activities have been punctuated by Easter and birthday celebrations and a little bit of painting to boot!!! I have produced quince paste, fig paste, fig jam, tomato sauce, sweet chilli sauce and have been trying to use all the available produce in my day to day cooking.

I thought it senseless to plant anything else as I have plans to travel again but the pleasure that I experience from growing my own food has got the better of me and lettuce, broccholi and beet root are back in the garden. My major achievement has been to finally use the compost that has been maturing away with absolutely no assistance from me. I am embarrassed to relate the excitement that I felt once I had turned this organic matter over and dug it into the bare veggie boxes!!!!

The main work and renovations are just about complete and this week saw the final light fittings installed outside and Ross has just a day or 2 of work to complete a few minor outstanding jobs. The water feature in the front garden has the fountain installed and I now have to buy more water plants. I still have 9 fruit trees to pick up from the nursery and am contemplating where to position them. The last of the blueberries have been planted and there is a little bit of space in the planter boxes for who knows what!

Now most of the intensive work is done I no longer have an excuse for not getting back to my Spanish lessons ( except that I find it hard to sit still for that long) and am returning to Zumba, have to fill those long cold winter days.

On the weekend Lois and Dennis came to visit and this seemed a prime opportunity to test cook some Cambodian recipes. I made the Ginger Chicken, stir fried veg and we followed this with a quince sponge which is hardly Cambodian but I will blog the recipe anyway! The sweet chilli sauce is in keeping with this food even though it is a recently discovered one and successfully made through trial and error!

What I have discovered with Cambodian cooking is that a lot of garlic, oyster sauce, sugar, fish sauce and chicken stock powder is used! Ginger is used in specific dishes and not too many dishes have a hot bite to them. I am always tempted to add chilli to my food so have to restrain myself here!!!!

I have westernized the chicken cuts as I find chicken with little bones off putting when eating a stir fry.

GINGER CHICKEN:

Serves 4.

Vegetable oil 2teaspoons

Butter 2 teaspoons

Chicken thighs. 500 gms chopped into approx 2 cm cubes

Ginger. 1/4 cup fine matchstick pieces

Garlic. 2 teaspoons finely chopped

Sugar. 1 level desert spoon

Oyster sauce. 2 tablespoons

Fish sauce. 1 teaspoon

Chicken stock powder 2 teaspoons

Water. 1/4 cup

Spring onions. 4 washed, trimmed and cut into 2 cm lengths ( green and white)

Onion. 1 small peeled and sliced into fine crescents

 

Sauté ginger until tender and aromatic

Add garlic, sauces, sugar and chicken powder, stir well

Add chicken and brown

Add water and simmer with cover on for 5 minutes then remove cover and cook until chicken is sticky and cooked through ( approx 5-8 minutes)

Add onion and spring onions, stir through and serve.

Serve with Jasmine rice.

 

CHEATS RICE:

Serves 4

Thoroughly wash 2 cups jasmine rice

Cover with 3 cups hot water

Microwave uncovered 10 minutes

Fork up and let sit covered for 5 minutes.

Fork up again and serve

 

STIR FRY VEGETABLES WITH OYSTER SAUCE:

Serves 4

Lebanese cucumber. 1 peeled decoratively and sliced on the diagonal

Cauliflower 1/4 cut into florets

Green or snake beans. 1/2 cup sliced into 3 cm pieces

Carrot. 1/2 cup decoratively cut into bite size 3 cm batons

Red or green capsicum. 1/4 cup cut into bite size pieces

Garlic. 1 teaspoon finely chopped

Chicken powder. 1 teaspoon

Oyster sauce. 1 tablespoon

Butter 2 teaspoons

Vegetable oil. 2 teaspoons

 

Bring a large saucepan of water to the boil

Add carrots and beans, blanch 1 minute

Add capsicum, blanch 1 further minute

Add cauliflower and blanch further 1 minute

Drain well and refresh veg in cold water

Melt butter and oil in wok

Sauté garlic until tender and golden

Add stock powder and oyster sauce

Add cucumber and fry for 1 minute

Add remaining veg and sauté 1 minute until heated through

 

I bought a vegetable cutter in the Siem Reap market that has a 10 cm fluted edge that is perfect for decoratively slicing the vegetables. This looks nice but also seems to hold the sauce better.

 

SWEET CHILLI SAUCE:

Although not generally served in Cambodia, I really like this with the cold or fried spring rolls. We seemed to be served this more in Vietnam.

 

Long red chillies. 12 chopped finely seeds included!!!!

Garlic. 8 cloves chopped finely

Ginger. 2 cm knob hopped finely

White sugar. 4 cups

White vinegar. 4 cups ( can use rice, wine or standard)

Salt. 2 teaspoons

 

Place all ingredients in a large saucepan and bring to the boil.

Cook uncovered, stirring frequently over a low heat ( keep surface bubbling)

Reduce for about 20 minutes until syrupy ( remember it thickens on cooling)

Let sit 5 minutes

Pour into sterile jars and let cool before refrigerating. I would think that this should also be OK kept in a cool pantry.

 

Nice as a dipping sauce or in a stir fry to add some zip!!!!!!

 

Hope you try these dishes and enjoy them.

Next attempt will be a beef dísh called Lok Lac but first need an audience to practice on!!

 

Moving House and Going Home

Moving house in Cambodia really is a literal turn of phrase! We think of it as packing up our possessions and changing address. Not so here. A work force turns up overnight and from the roof down the house is dismantled and every part that can be is salvaged, is salvaged. We have witnessed this over the past week. The alternative route to school is along the Tonle Sap Road that follows the river. Every day there is another area of housing that has been cleared. The initial reaction was one of indignation that there has been an injustice served upon these poor residents and small businesses but it always pays to get the detail from those in the know!

It seems that some years ago a large donation of money was given by the Korean government to dredge the Tonle Sap River to increase its depth to try to prevent future flooding of the city. Funds were to also be used to beautify the river banks and improve the pathways. The residents were then given their marching orders but also financially compensated . Trouble was that nobody made an attempt to move and the deadline has now been reached so mass evacuation! The "evacuees" have also been given land outside of town to resettle on. I still believed that this compulsory acquisition was a bit harsh but have been reassured by an NGO manager that Khmer people do not put as much stock on possessions as we do and are a bit nomadic by nature!!!!

In some ways I can understand why the government want the river cleared because even though it is naturally beautiful, it has been dreadfully polluted by the riverside dwellers who allow all waste and rubbish to be drained into it. There is an article on www.travel fish.org if you wish to read another recent story on this topic.

There is some doubt that the widening and deepening of the river will actually resolve the flooding issue as the Tonle Sap feeds into the Tonle Sap lake which in turn is fed into by the Mekong. In the wet the Mekong and the Lake back flow up into the Tonle Sap River and eventually these waters will meet that which is flowing out and it is thought that there will be flooding wherever this occurs. Only time will tell.

 

It is my second last day at the project, Amber and Imran finish today and Thursday night plans include dinner at the Temple Club to watch the Apsaras dancers ( I have already done this but several haven't had the experience yet). The plan after dinner is for Karaoke.

It is always sad for the volunteers who are leaving, sad for us who have to say goodbye to people we have come to know very well over a short space of time. The kids at the project are always disappointed when teachers they have become fond of depart but I think they h ave become so used to this movement of people that it no longer troubles them. That is not to say that they don't welcome you back with open arms if you return.

 

 

 

The dinner and show were fun, but the karaoke!!!!! It is not so easy to sing when you can't hear yourself, but we all got up and made fools of ourselves, some more than others. It was such a funny night. Everyone kept themselves nice but it was a tribute to the comfort that we had with each other that we could open up this way! The French amongst us I am sad to say have terrible taste in music and thought they were at a wedding and belted out all the old French tunes. Sally was great and Beth was fantastic singing Alicia Keys hitting all the right notes but we will certainly remember Sally's Oooh Yeah!!!

 

 

My turn to say goodbye on Friday, I left for work early so that I could savor the last ride and get a few photos of the village and have the chance to say goodbye to the local friends I have made. Lessons as usual with some art to follow. Sad once again to say goodbyes and find it difficult to believe that 4 weeks has come to an end.

Nak and I had arrangements to go to Sugar Palm for dinner, he picked me up on his motor bike and off we went. Unfortunately a party was being held over the road to the restaurant and the noise was horrendous so we didn't stay. Plan B was to go to Nest, no tables left due to a big group booking so ended up at the Indian restaurant, good food but uninspiring surrounds for the last supper! The funny thing was that the waitress remembered me from last year! I hadn't been there this year.

Saturday morning - first at the pool and am going to make the most of it! 2 hours in the sun followed up by a final body scrub and massage. Bliss, what a way to finish my trip. Said my farewells and hugs all round from the female staff. Flight leaving at 6 pm for Ho Chi Min.

 

 

It has been a wonderful time in Siem Reap, the time has flown, I have met some wonderful people, worked hard, experienced a bit of culture and am ready to return for more! Sadly the volunteer tour is not going ahead for May and at this stage I am strongly considering returning to work at Grace House. Can strongly recommend that at some stage of your lives that you experience some volunteer work-It is so rewarding.

As promised I will be doing a test drive on the recipes I gleaned from the kitchen staff at Grace House and will post them once done.

Good luck for you, good dreams for me.

 

 

Road Rules

When ever I have asked one of my Khmer friends or one of the Khmer staff at Grace House what exactly are the road rules, they look at me in a strange way. I am not sure if it is disbelief that I would consider there are any rules or disbelief that I haven't yet comprehended that there doesn't seem to be any. Well I have been paying close attention and there obviously are rules even though one person looked me in the eye and denied the existence of this 4 letter word.
Rule number 1:
First person at the intersection has right of way - particularly if you are a big truck or bus. (If there are traffic lights just all creep forward until the green lights  up)
Rule number 2:
Drive mainly on the RHS of the road - except if you are a big bus or truck - drive where ever you like
Rule number 3:
Entering a main road and turning right into the stream of traffic, don't look just swing out and disregard the other drivers.
Rule number 4:
Left hand turn - when the oncoming traffic thins out enough swing over onto the wrong side of the road  making sure you stay on the inside of traffic going in the correct direction, turn left whilst looking over your right shoulder and slipping back over the road into the correct lane.
Rule number 5:
Overtaking - overtaking the vehicle in front of you that is overtaking the vehicle in front of him at consecutive moments is perfectly acceptable as long as there is enough room for an oncoming bicycle to squeeze through when they are travelling in the correct lane. Do not use indicators but DO blast your horn for as long and as loud as you can.
The main thing to consider is that buses and trucks have top spot in the hierarchy of traffic and they can and will do whatever they like, next come BIG SUVs, mainly Lexus, Audi and Toyota, then standard cars followed by tuk tuks, motor bikes then bicycles.
It is permissible to carry 2 pigs (upside down) a trailer load of vegetables (tied in a big bundle) 24 chickens tied at the ankles or 5 passengers on your motorbike.
I am quite satisfied that this research is true and correct.

My daily triathlon continues, I have uped (I know it is incorrect English but it happens to us all) the swimming and now swim around 500 metres (around the pool 18 times) pedal a little faster but try to avoid arriving at work dripping and the leg with the children remains a challenge but one I remain up for! By the time I get home - particularly after the 2 extended days when I do an hour extra teaching from 3-4pm, I fall into the pool and wonder if I will ever find the energy to get out again. I am so tired at night that I want to go to sleep at 8pm but the trouble is then I am awake at 4.30!! Of course this has turned into a cycle of early nights and early mornings. I have beaten the pool cleaner into submission in the mornings and he has given up trying to beat me down there now. I break the rules and slip into the water at 5.45 and there is no way that he is going to come in to work any earlier!!

The ride to work remains an adventure. Last week the damaging irrigation seemed to have stopped and the locals started to rebuild their bridges and start working on the fields but low and behold the irrigation gates have been reopened and the water is flowing faster and higher than before. The locals just get on with it and do the best they can. I suppose the fishing improves at these times!! The bridges which have steel ramps have deteriorated markedly over the past 2 weeks and the ramps are separating and the sand is disappearing due to the amount of traffic scattering it. The ride up is now a bit longer and faster being very careful not to get the wheels of the bike caught in the gaps which could lead to being catapulted into the canal and joining the ducks, or being run over by the following trucks. Neither on my bucket list thanks.

The previous week at school had a theme about hearing which lead onto noises and animals in the jungle, a very loose connection I know but we were trying to achieve a theme for a photographer we were working with. She unfortunately was sick and didn't end up arriving so Amber and I dug out the digitals and had some fun with the kids anyway and got some great shots. We let them have a go with the cameras also which they love. Some of the shots are posted below.

Lois remained with me until Friday and she managed to fit in a bit of poolside activity and more cultural experiences along with a few good meals out in the evenings, plus a vist to Grace House to see the weaving and donate a bag of goodies.  But as previously commented, I am not much fun at night and just want to fall into bed! We visited the Temple Bar and watched the Apsara dancing show, went to the charity quiz night but left before the questions started as I almost had my head on the bar - asleep and had dinner with Marcias son Darren (who had just arrived from Korea via Phnom Penh) and Kanal (a tour guide friend that I met previously through Marcia). A busy week all round!

As Lois had departed, I vowed a quiet weekend of lesson planning and self indulgence but was foiled. Saturday started out as planned, I went to The Angkor National Museum which is fantastic and very sophisticated in its presentation and artifacts. I was pleasantly surprised. I then got a phone call from Kanal telling me we were meeting for dinner with Darren and Marcia's other visiting offspring, Julianna. A very pleasant evening which I forgot to mention was preceded by a massage and pedicure!

On Sunday I rode into the town and visited a business that downloads music onto your laptop etc for $1 per album so have increased my music list enormously. Spent the late morning and most of the afternoon at the pool and was joined by Phearom (Khmer teacher from Grace House) and her gorgeous daughter Sana. Sana has never been in a bath before, never mind a swimming pool and she was amazing. So confident and had such a lot of fun. In the evening Nak and I strolled up to Beaches (my favourite Thai restaurant) for a meal before I fell into bed again at 9pm. Late night this one!!!!!!

Monday, back to work, definitely having a quiet week!! Hasn't worked out that way so far!! Out to dinner Monday night with Alan and Alison, a couple from the UK who are long term volunteers. Alison is a very organized and knowledgable primary teacher who has written a 12 month teaching plan for the pre school kids and that is no mean feat. Alan was a school principal who took on the role of volunteer coordinator and also teaches. They have also been working in a border town called Palin (near Battambang) working with some Marist brothers doing outreach work. People to be admired. They are also finishing up this week, there will be a mass exodus on Friday with very few volunteers arriving for April.
Last night out with the volunteer staff from Grace House for a very chilled evening and out again tonight with the volunteers from Globalteers. I am very fortunate to be included in these outings. Also fortunate that I also have the time I have to myself living at Frangipani. Staying here was a very good move by me!!

This morning Nak picked me up at 5.15 for a sunrise view of Angkor Wat. Meant that I was up at 4.30!! Unfortunately for me I was still awake at 1.30am - had one of those sleepless nights, so very little sleep when the alarm went off. I couldn't believe the crowds that attended, Nak who attends this regularly was also shocked at the number of people. It may have been as the previous 2 mornings had been cloudy so no view. Anyway, we settled ourselves on the bank of the pond and watched the sky and the water reflect the pinks and mauves and then like something surreal, this massive orange globe appeared above the main tower of Angkor Wat. What a sight to see! Lots of oohs and aahs!!!!! We took bucket loads of photos and then went for a walk around the outer perimeter of the temple. I was astonished that so few people did this as you get a completely different perspective of the temples. I will always remember this walk and the screech that reverberated around the Wat when I stood on a red ant nest and they jumped on my ankles and bit me. So embarrassing to hear the echoes of my squacking!!! I was also told this morning that last week some excavation was being done at the Bayon temple and a 1 kg gold crown was unearthed and they believe it was the kings crown, an amazing find.

Unfortunately the photos have downloaded out of sequence and my skills using the blog are not yet upto editing this!!

I returned to the hotel mid morning and promptly fell asleep after a swim and ended up not going to work today. Pointless as I had to shower, eat and dress and would have got there too late. Felt very guilty sitting by the pool, dangling my feet in the cool waters, eating lunch whilst my co-workers sweated it out at the project - NOT!!
So another busy and rewarding 10 days has passed by and only 2 more to go until I finish at Grace House. Still waiting to hear if the trip in May is proceeding, hopefully it is and I will get to return and then stay for a few more weeks work after the clients depart.

Good luck for you, good dreams for me.