When ever I have asked one of my Khmer friends or one of the Khmer staff at Grace House what exactly are the road rules, they look at me in a strange way. I am not sure if it is disbelief that I would consider there are any rules or disbelief that I haven't yet comprehended that there doesn't seem to be any. Well I have been paying close attention and there obviously are rules even though one person looked me in the eye and denied the existence of this 4 letter word.
Rule number 1:
First person at the intersection has right of way - particularly if you are a big truck or bus. (If there are traffic lights just all creep forward until the green lights up)
Rule number 2:
Drive mainly on the RHS of the road - except if you are a big bus or truck - drive where ever you like
Rule number 3:
Entering a main road and turning right into the stream of traffic, don't look just swing out and disregard the other drivers.
Rule number 4:
Left hand turn - when the oncoming traffic thins out enough swing over onto the wrong side of the road making sure you stay on the inside of traffic going in the correct direction, turn left whilst looking over your right shoulder and slipping back over the road into the correct lane.
Rule number 5:
Overtaking - overtaking the vehicle in front of you that is overtaking the vehicle in front of him at consecutive moments is perfectly acceptable as long as there is enough room for an oncoming bicycle to squeeze through when they are travelling in the correct lane. Do not use indicators but DO blast your horn for as long and as loud as you can.
The main thing to consider is that buses and trucks have top spot in the hierarchy of traffic and they can and will do whatever they like, next come BIG SUVs, mainly Lexus, Audi and Toyota, then standard cars followed by tuk tuks, motor bikes then bicycles.
It is permissible to carry 2 pigs (upside down) a trailer load of vegetables (tied in a big bundle) 24 chickens tied at the ankles or 5 passengers on your motorbike.
I am quite satisfied that this research is true and correct.
My daily triathlon continues, I have uped (I know it is incorrect English but it happens to us all) the swimming and now swim around 500 metres (around the pool 18 times) pedal a little faster but try to avoid arriving at work dripping and the leg with the children remains a challenge but one I remain up for! By the time I get home - particularly after the 2 extended days when I do an hour extra teaching from 3-4pm, I fall into the pool and wonder if I will ever find the energy to get out again. I am so tired at night that I want to go to sleep at 8pm but the trouble is then I am awake at 4.30!! Of course this has turned into a cycle of early nights and early mornings. I have beaten the pool cleaner into submission in the mornings and he has given up trying to beat me down there now. I break the rules and slip into the water at 5.45 and there is no way that he is going to come in to work any earlier!!
The ride to work remains an adventure. Last week the damaging irrigation seemed to have stopped and the locals started to rebuild their bridges and start working on the fields but low and behold the irrigation gates have been reopened and the water is flowing faster and higher than before. The locals just get on with it and do the best they can. I suppose the fishing improves at these times!! The bridges which have steel ramps have deteriorated markedly over the past 2 weeks and the ramps are separating and the sand is disappearing due to the amount of traffic scattering it. The ride up is now a bit longer and faster being very careful not to get the wheels of the bike caught in the gaps which could lead to being catapulted into the canal and joining the ducks, or being run over by the following trucks. Neither on my bucket list thanks.
The previous week at school had a theme about hearing which lead onto noises and animals in the jungle, a very loose connection I know but we were trying to achieve a theme for a photographer we were working with. She unfortunately was sick and didn't end up arriving so Amber and I dug out the digitals and had some fun with the kids anyway and got some great shots. We let them have a go with the cameras also which they love. Some of the shots are posted below.
Lois remained with me until Friday and she managed to fit in a bit of poolside activity and more cultural experiences along with a few good meals out in the evenings, plus a vist to Grace House to see the weaving and donate a bag of goodies. But as previously commented, I am not much fun at night and just want to fall into bed! We visited the Temple Bar and watched the Apsara dancing show, went to the charity quiz night but left before the questions started as I almost had my head on the bar - asleep and had dinner with Marcias son Darren (who had just arrived from Korea via Phnom Penh) and Kanal (a tour guide friend that I met previously through Marcia). A busy week all round!
As Lois had departed, I vowed a quiet weekend of lesson planning and self indulgence but was foiled. Saturday started out as planned, I went to The Angkor National Museum which is fantastic and very sophisticated in its presentation and artifacts. I was pleasantly surprised. I then got a phone call from Kanal telling me we were meeting for dinner with Darren and Marcia's other visiting offspring, Julianna. A very pleasant evening which I forgot to mention was preceded by a massage and pedicure!
On Sunday I rode into the town and visited a business that downloads music onto your laptop etc for $1 per album so have increased my music list enormously. Spent the late morning and most of the afternoon at the pool and was joined by Phearom (Khmer teacher from Grace House) and her gorgeous daughter Sana. Sana has never been in a bath before, never mind a swimming pool and she was amazing. So confident and had such a lot of fun. In the evening Nak and I strolled up to Beaches (my favourite Thai restaurant) for a meal before I fell into bed again at 9pm. Late night this one!!!!!!
Monday, back to work, definitely having a quiet week!! Hasn't worked out that way so far!! Out to dinner Monday night with Alan and Alison, a couple from the UK who are long term volunteers. Alison is a very organized and knowledgable primary teacher who has written a 12 month teaching plan for the pre school kids and that is no mean feat. Alan was a school principal who took on the role of volunteer coordinator and also teaches. They have also been working in a border town called Palin (near Battambang) working with some Marist brothers doing outreach work. People to be admired. They are also finishing up this week, there will be a mass exodus on Friday with very few volunteers arriving for April.
Last night out with the volunteer staff from Grace House for a very chilled evening and out again tonight with the volunteers from Globalteers. I am very fortunate to be included in these outings. Also fortunate that I also have the time I have to myself living at Frangipani. Staying here was a very good move by me!!
This morning Nak picked me up at 5.15 for a sunrise view of Angkor Wat. Meant that I was up at 4.30!! Unfortunately for me I was still awake at 1.30am - had one of those sleepless nights, so very little sleep when the alarm went off. I couldn't believe the crowds that attended, Nak who attends this regularly was also shocked at the number of people. It may have been as the previous 2 mornings had been cloudy so no view. Anyway, we settled ourselves on the bank of the pond and watched the sky and the water reflect the pinks and mauves and then like something surreal, this massive orange globe appeared above the main tower of Angkor Wat. What a sight to see! Lots of oohs and aahs!!!!! We took bucket loads of photos and then went for a walk around the outer perimeter of the temple. I was astonished that so few people did this as you get a completely different perspective of the temples. I will always remember this walk and the screech that reverberated around the Wat when I stood on a red ant nest and they jumped on my ankles and bit me. So embarrassing to hear the echoes of my squacking!!! I was also told this morning that last week some excavation was being done at the Bayon temple and a 1 kg gold crown was unearthed and they believe it was the kings crown, an amazing find.
Unfortunately the photos have downloaded out of sequence and my skills using the blog are not yet upto editing this!!
I returned to the hotel mid morning and promptly fell asleep after a swim and ended up not going to work today. Pointless as I had to shower, eat and dress and would have got there too late. Felt very guilty sitting by the pool, dangling my feet in the cool waters, eating lunch whilst my co-workers sweated it out at the project - NOT!!
So another busy and rewarding 10 days has passed by and only 2 more to go until I finish at Grace House. Still waiting to hear if the trip in May is proceeding, hopefully it is and I will get to return and then stay for a few more weeks work after the clients depart.
Good luck for you, good dreams for me.
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