Same Same but Different

Can't quite reach, was it that one you wanted?

Same, same but different, every traveller to Asia has heard the words, seen the T shirts, but it still rings true. So much in Siem Reap is the same and so much has changed in the 12 months since my last visit.
Same same is the heat, the humidity, the congestion when school is out, the assault of the (foreign to our culture) sounds, sights and smells. The lovely smiling faces, the patience of the people and the welcome.
But Different is the increase in traffic, the abundance of new hotels popping up and the damage to the infrastructure that is still under repair following last years flooding.
                                                               

Breakfast choices, duck or chicken?

Up and atom on my first morning and into the market, such a shock the first inhalation but so familiar! Remembered to wear shoes that could stand up to the discarded fish, veg and off cuts that get dropped on the floor and the streams of water that wash it all down into the drain and then very probably into the river. The noise, the crowd, the produce! Such a fantastic experience. I love it. Only regret is that I dont have a kitchen that I can take it all home to. I do have to say that I am still a little anxious about the meat but the vegetables and seafood are amazing along with eggs, spices and fruits.

What happened to choosing jasmine or basmati? 

Specialty butcher???

Who has the chicken legs?

 I trawled up and down for an hour or so , managed to keep the feet dry and eventually found Bridget (from Grace House) at the Central cafe where we had arranged to meet for lunch. Handy little place, good coffee, clean, welcoming with good wi-fi. Many an expat can be found sitting  here and sending off their reports and news letters!
Marilyn - also a repeat volunteer from Grace House wandered in after we had had lunch and we finished off with a glass or 2 of bubbles to celebrate her birthday.

How to hitch a trailer Cambodian style

OK safety check done, we're off!

Saturday night, Nak appeared at 6pm as arranged to take me to purchase a phone and sim card. He drives a moto (motorbike to us) so hopped on the back and off we go weaving through the mind boggling sea of tuk tuks, bicycles , motos and Lexus 4 wheel drives that are in abundance here. He gets to wear a helmet as it is law - I get to have a brain injury if I fall off, not compulsory for me to wear one so he doesn't have a spare. Maybe I should reconsider this form of travel.
Dinner in town followed by icecream at Blue Pumpkin. Same same, following the routines of last year.

We were meant to be going to a wedding on Sunday but Nak has been offerred another tour for a group in Phnom  Penh (working at a zoo) and as income here is seasonal he has to take it. I return to the hotel at around 9 and he heads home to get his bag and to catch the overnight bus to Phnom Penh. Good thing really as I am exhausted. He is so embarrassed and apologetic  but that is the way things are here.
My room at Frangipani is so comfortable, TV, big comfy bed. good shower and I take advantage of all of the above!



Sunday is reserved for the pool! A couple of hours in my room catching up with emails etc then down I go. I can see from my window the spot I want. In the corner, under a frangipani, dappled sun - perfect. Pop on the togs, run downstairs - knee feeling very good) . BUGGER somebody has beaten me to it so I am in the shade which is probably better for me (although I dont feel that way, want some sun on the legs).
I have arranged for Phearom (the wonderful teacher that I worked with last year) and her 3 year old daughter to come and have lunch and a swim for the afternoon. They arrive at 11 - it is so nice to see her again. She is a gentle young woman who is so good with the kids and fortunately now has a sponsor paying for her university education to gain her teaching degree.
She lives with her family, was married but he left. Cambodian culture is that she is now not acceptable to most men which is an absolute crime for her.
Sana, her daughter has never seen people swimming before and is perplexed. Where are their tails? how can you be a fish and not have a tail? The things we take for granted. Gorgeous child, she doesn't want to leave and wants to have a swim but they need to go to a family wedding in the country. Only around 20km away but that is a big distance for most Cambodians. Many children at Grace House have not been into Siem Reap town, it is only 4 km from the school!!!
Bridget joins me in the afternoon for a laze around the pool, I am afraid that I could get used to this!
I met a young woman from the UK today, she has been here before and now has a 2 year post with a USA travel agent who ploughs the profits from her business (which covers a lot of South east Asia) back into the community by way of sponsoring young adults in their education. She also owns a small boutique hotel in Siem Reap where training is offerred. What a great initiative. We plan to catch up again next weekend.

Monday morning, I am so excited about returning to Grace House and get into what I came back here for. I hop into a tuk tuk, as at this stage I dont have a bike plus I have a couple of bags of goodies to take along from the wish list. The Tonle Sap Road has just been resurfaced following the floods but the devastation on the road side is evident with paving lifted, sand bags lying around, homes deserted. Word has it that the government has not allowed some families to return as they actually want to evict the area to allow for beautification of the river. Another nod to tourism at the expense of the villagers I guess.
I arrive at Grace House and am first seen at the gate by the ladies who do the cooking and i get such a warm welcome, hugs all round, then i see the teachers and kids, many who remember me and it is a very warm and fuzzy feeling!!!!!!!!! Does my soul such a lot of good to see people who are so happy to see me!
Alan gives me the grand tour, lots of changes but still same, same. There are additions such as an evening youth club, extra after school time classes, a disability group and an outlet shop for the products the weaving ladies produce.
I am in a class with Sophor and I will assist her with a group of kids around 9-12 years old. My class from last year sent their teacher to me later in the day to ask why I am not with them. A couple are quite put out! Still I see them all every day and stop by to say hello.
This months theme is the body and Sophors class are studying senses. For this week Rosie (a young woman from the UK) is still teaching and i am happy to let her continue as i have been offerred another job for the week!! I will still come and go from the class room but have the task of observing the ladies in the kitchen and gleaning their traditional recipes and methods. They dont write this down and so obviously go by memory and tweaking! So for the past week I have had the best of both worlds at Grace House. Some assist teaching (pronunciation and phonetics) and cooking! if you are going to be in the kitchen a knife gets put in your hands and you get to be involved!
The girls, Mom, Hing and Nyg are gorgeous and work like magicians! From $30 spent at the market, they are able to offer 3 different dishes plus rice, for 20 kids and 20 adults. Twice a week meals are also delivered to 2 elderly ladies in the community who are now unable to get to the market. Unbelievable!!
Everyday they have made traditional dishes which I have had the privilege of photographing and being involved with. It has been a slightly difficult process in that the food is in the middle of the kitchen and the girls take what they need and cook away. My job was to see what went where and what they did with it, Amusing as only Mom has a smattering of Englis, (I can only say thank you and count to five (which did come in handy) so there was a lot of mime! The recipes are for 20 serves so there is a bit of refining and test cooking before i can release them into general circulation!
This cooking observation was not just for my benefit but for the Grace House cook book that is to be collated. We will be using these recipes plus calling upon volunteers to submit their favourites from home. Should be interesting as we have such a multi cultural group.
The week flowed on interspersed by evening dinners for welcomes and farewells, finally got a bike sorted out so now pedalling to school (which I have to say is a little more difficult doe to the increase in traffic).
Have had a lovely Saturday by the pool with another couple of volunteers, Ellie and Jim who hail from Whitton which is near to where my grandparents lived. Met up with Anna again (from the travel company) today more of the same and dinner tonight at the local Thai to say goodbye to this lovely couple who return to the UK this week. There is constant change here with so many welcomes and farewells.
Next week will see me in the class room full time, plus 2 after school classes, I have been given the task of teaching some grammar so there needs to be a bit of brushing up done today! All good things to look forward to. Morning and afternoon swims, work, great dinners, cycling. Very full days.
Wednesday heralds the arrival of Lois who is on long service leave and thought she would come and check out the place for herself. She will have the task of reserving 2 sun beds by the pool for when I return from school.
Good luck for you, good dreams for me (Khmer farewell)
Until next week ...........................